Tuesday, December 30, 2008

VIETNAM!!!!

Well it has been a few days, but they have been action packed and adventure filled. On the morning of the 28th we awoke bright and early to board a bus to go to, well to be honest we weren't really sure, we were just hoping that we'd get over the boarder and into Vietnam, somehow!!!

We were not disappointed. We were picked from the hotel at 0730 in a little tiny bus; we assumed that we were going to the bus station to catch a larger bus to the border. 2 hours later we corrected this assumption, as we were still on the same bus. We arrived at a little shack where we disembarked from the bus, were led around the back of a hut, to a boat! A little one, very little. We then chugged, very nosily, along the lower Mekong for a while till we came to customs, and immigration, and boarder control, where we were checked and stamped and stapled through passport control. It cost us 2000dong to get through the boarder, each! That’s about uh, 25 cents!!! We stopped here for lunch. This was our first experience with…squat toilets! Oh the wonders… but apparently the toilet at the restaurant was worse, having no toilet only a floor, which you then washed away with a bucket. We then changed boats and tour guides to make our way to Chau Doc.

Must mention a fellow tourist who was with us on the boat. A Chinese lady who carried her own LIFE VEST…in her pack, what a waste of space, I mean the ratio of life jacket to people wasn’t quite right about 16:24 but who’s complaining, she was a strange women. Very strange. Her partner refused to get on a motorcycle, “it’s too dangerous” I mean where’s the sense of adventure…very strange people…

On the way to Chau Doc we saw a multitude of locals and all the children insisted on calling out and waving to us in the boat. We also saw a “monkey bridge” for the first time and were conned into joining a three day tour of the Mekong to Saigon. We arrived in Chau Doc around 1630 where we booked into a hotel and went to find dinner. We found in a little local restaurant, where dad decided he would try FROG!!!

Much against my quite protests about eating endangered species, Dad enjoyed the Frog and apparently it “tastes like chicken, just with a little more personality”, wow how original dad!!! The rest of us had much tamer meals…

Chau Doc to Can Tho…

Well this morning it was a 0600 start. To get on a stupid little bus which had no leg room. Especially not for tall people. It was not made for westerners.

We boarded a boat and went out to a Cham village; well it seemed much put on. Cham is a Vietnamese ethnic minority. They lived in a little village with a mosque and schools.

After the Cham village we went to a fish farm where they were breeding cat fish and basa, you could see them all splashing and snapping around.

We then re-bordered the bus and took a couple of hours to get to our next destination Can Tho. We arrived at Can Tho around midday, in time for lunch. Checked into the hotel and wandered around the town.

That evening, we went out for dinner to a nice looking, rather empty restaurant. The meal was rather good. Then dad decided that he would have a go at traditional methods of healing…CUPPING. looks like it might be dangerous, with a flame like that!

Apparently it was not painful, though he still has the nasty welts from it…oh so very attractive. It was early to bed, and early to rise the next morning.

Can Tho to Saigon

A 0630 start again this morning, off to the floating markets, a “monkey bridge”, a rice noodle/paper factory and a fruit plantation.

The floating markets were very interesting. The stall owners, place on top of a large bamboo pole an example of their wares, a boat selling turnips and cauliflower, had a few turnips and cauliflowers attached to the pole, high above their boat.

We then went to the monkey bridge, much constructed like a rope bridge, with three bamboo poles, one to stand on and two either side to hold. It was rather precarious. But it was not that scary to cross … rather overrated.

Next stop, was the rice factory, where they ground the rice into a paste, consisting of 60% rice and 30% tapioca. The tapioca is what makes the rice noodles/vermicelli rubbery. They then dried the paste into rounds in the sun on bamboo mats.

Final stop before making our way to Saigon, was the fruit plantation, where we bought some delicious mango. We made our way back to the boat and then to the bus to settle in for the trip to Saigon.

We arrived in Saigon in the pouring rain after a very un-educational bus ride with
ignorant (short legged ) Vietnamese couple (so obviously newly married I needed my sick bag) who thought that we 6 footers could fit into a sardine space…not so. It’s the closest dad has ever seen Mum come to punching someone (other than him) out!

Frankly the “tour” was a bit of disappointment.

Money here makes one feel ever so rich, with about $300USD equating to 4 million Vietnamese Dong Did I mention the rain and it looked for a while that Mary and Joseph, and the wise children would all have to stay in a manger, however it was not Christmas, so after a bit of hard negotiations in the dark and rain we found a room at an inn.

It was “God Mothers” and it was run by a lovely old lady. Showed us the room US$30.00 for the night, and we settled in. Went out for tea at the “God Mothers” and then went for a bit of a walk. It rained again….Not cold though. The roads became a river. The road almost immediately clears of Motorcycle riders, only to reappear shortly after as caped crusaders. Relatively early to bed, in a shared room, all 5 of us. What wasn’t immediately disclosed in the PDS was that just below the poorly shuttered window of the room was a revelation. It was not an Inn; it was an all night bar.
Oh well slept not all that good. It was too noisy, too bright, and possibly fleas, as evidenced by bites on Dad and I. we quickly went house hunting this morning, aroung oh, 0730, before people had even checked out. However this was a good move it seems as the number of people that we have come across seeking accommodation tonight was phenomenal. And being NY’sE, the owners can quite rightly charge what-ever they please.

We had a slow day once checked in to a new hotel, very clean very pleasant. We went to the Ben Than market in the centre of town. Just wandered around, purchased two fake Ralph Lauren tees for 250,000 Dong, bartered down from 400,000, works out to about $7US each and 2 fake LV wallets, for the same price, although I was ripped off, because the next vendor dropped his price to 100,000. although I’m sure he was just annoyed that I did not buy from him.

Quite afternoon, had dinner in a noodle bar. I learnt how to say “I’m vegetarian”....”Toi an Chay”…however the noodle bar catered for locals…not westerners… we were a HUGE source of amusement for the staff there as I’m sure we did everything incorrectly… dad asked how he was supposed to eat his meal!!!


Anyway


Went into the park this evening to watch the preliminary NYE celebrations, and I’m going to pack it in now…


HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL, and it’s only 2230 here…I’m exhausted. 0230 at home, hope that you all have a wonderful NYE and a safe and happy 2009.


More later


Xin chou


P.S. i did get warned by a friendly local to "to take care of photo" meaning " watch out for your camera, there are people around" i thought that it might be nice of me to pass the message onto dad... well he didn't find it amusing...

i was just trying to do the right thing! :)


Good night!!!




Saturday, December 27, 2008

2nd Day in Phnom Penh,

Any person who visits Phnom Penh must visit at least one of two places. There is nothing enjoyable about the two places that we did go today. We arranged to hire a Tuk-Tuk for the day for $US22, it was pretty squeezey. The first place that we went to visit was about 15km out of Phnom Penh. The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. This place used to be a Lychee Orchard and a Chinese cemetery this was up until 1975 (Pol Pot and his comrades had hundreds of these places of killing in Cambodia, claming to be a Maoist nation).
Between 1975 and 1978 about 17000 men, women, children and infants. The unfortunate souls were usually people who have been detained and tortured at S-21 and then transferred to the killing fields by the truckload. Many of the victims were bludgeoned to death to avoid wasting precious and expensive bullets. The remains of 8000 plus people many of whom were still bound and blindfolded were exhumed from the mass graves in 1980. 43 of the 129 communal graves have been left untouched, yet to be excavated. There is a 27 meter, 17 story high tower containing the skulls of the people killed here. After the previous nights rain there were some scattered remnants of clothing and teeth that were clearly visible on the ground. It is a horrible horrible place, but one of great peace and a definite must visit, in the least to ensure that these dreadful things never never happen again.
“Complementary” to Choeung Ek, and next on our places visited was a place called (security prison) S-21, The Toul Sleng Museum. Prior to 1975, S-21 was a high school, Toul Svay Prey High School, and was taken over by Pol Pot security forces and turned in to an interrogation, detention and torture centre. The place was just so harrowing the starkness of the displays virtually as they were found on the day of the Vietnamese Invasion, it was so very difficult to even try to understand the sort of logic that allows things like this to happen.
After this we visited a few markets and a light lunch, we tuk-tuked over to the Royal Place and the Silver Pagoda, so called because of the thousands of solid silver tiles on the floor, not to mention the life size statue of Buddha of solid gold, encrusted with almost 10,000 diamonds, the largest 25 carats. There were many other very valuable but surprisingly poorly preserved royal artifacts.
We tried to get in Contact with the people that run the orphanage that we were going to visit, but the contact numbers were not working.
We then went out to dinner at a local spot, which was very interesting, but now we have organized our transport out of Phnom Penh, we are going by bus to Chau Doc, just over the Vietnamease Border.

Early start tomorrow
Early night tonight

* photos not working, will follow


XOX

Friday, December 26, 2008

Phnom Penh

This is being written in ‘word “and copied over to the Blog so it should be a better quality, than the stuff we have to put on the web direct.

This is very embarrassing one for me to write. You will see why later. And for a police man, who is telling everybody else to watch out.

Bus Journey from Siem Reap

We travelled yesterday from Siem Reap to Phnom Phem. This was a local bus and only cost USD$6.00 each. Local means that it seems to pick up and drop off wherever anyone wants. It also stops for a “wee stop”every two hours. It was a 6 hour trip and relatively uneventful. One of the local rules is that if you are under 8 and under 1.3 m that you don’t have to buy a ticket if you are with a full fare paying passenger.

Poor Saasha: She was beside a very big 8 year old who sat between her and some relative. Exacerbated by her sunburn, larger than Cambodian frame, and an apparent innate inability of Cambodian children (one on each side of her) to keep their stomach contents intact, she spent much of the journey sourcing plastic bags. Unlike the airlines there are no vomit bags on the local bus.

The wee stops are at eating places where local fare is abundant. Some of the local fare shown to us by the inveterate hawkers and beggars included “you buy pineapple mister” You buy paw paw lady” . Other fare which we chose not to partake was crickets(cooked of course) and big black spiders both cooked and live as well. The kids there seem to have no problem in handling these things. You should have seen Saasha jump when she was handed a furry creature(it was a little toy koala). Very funny. James and Patrick are a curiosity as they are literally twice the size of local children of the same age. And all the girls want them as boyfriends.
The toy koalas (you know the ones that you8 clip on lapels) are a hit with the kids.

We arrived in Phnom Pen, which when comparing Siem Reap, would be like comparing Ballarat and Sydney.
This place is bezerk. From the bus station we were taken to the Sunday Guest house, not that far, but far enough. Mum Dada, James and Patrick and ALL the baggage in one Tuk- Tuk, and Saasha, had a terrifying journey on the back of a motorcycle.

The Guest house is comfortable but hardly 6 star. But this in my opinion is what travelling in these parts is about.

OUR FIRST FORAY,

And foray it was. Things we had not seen in Siem Reap. Some kids sniffing paint and like behavior. Admittedly this caused me to advise all that “this place is not like Siem Reap, we must be more vigilant” We walked for about an hour or so and decide to go into one of the more “western” shopping complexes. It had 5 floors and of course escalators, which brought about my undoing. Some of the locals are not very comfortable with these metal monsters. Getting to the top of one of these the young girls in front of me stopped for no apparent reason and I ran into her, grumbling that she should not stop there. In retrospect what happened then was that this little woman's accomplice, a young fellow of a similar age relived me of my camera from my pocket.

I only discovered the missing camera some time later. After a frantic but futile search. we accepted the inevitable. Now if any of you have seen the Grizwold’s European holiday, and what happens when Clark loses his movie camera…..keep that thought in your minds. Little does Nathalie realize…….Oh well ….I only think there were 200 or so images, which most are retaken by James anyway. Fear of selecting an “unsafe” meal at dark in a “unknown” city, we had pizza for dinner, shortly followed by the purchase of a replacement camera (silver this time).

Thursday, December 25, 2008

23 Onwards

Everything from the bogged four wheel drive till christmas.

Christmas Eve, Eve:



This day was our tour to Phnom Kulen, about two hours out of town. This was shared with two Brisbaners. Phnom Kulen is a temple build into the mountain and river, built by The Lepper King, to cure himself, part of this cure was the carving of 1000 Lingas into the bed of the sandstone river, thus making it rather holy, he died anyway. We however we able to swim in the down stream from these holy-water-makers at the base of a waterfall. There is also a rather large reclining Buddha with "real bïg"diamonds as eyes.

We had lunch here at a local resturant, shared with dogs and chickensm having passed local sellers offering ivory wares, tiger wares, bear gall bladders and landmined deer's skulls ( we had to explain that customs may look on this dimly).

Christmas Eve:


For mass we headed off the Catholic Mission church and enjoyed an English mass by an Indonesian Father, run by a Canadian Sister, with a Khamer nativity play. This lead for one of the more insteresting christmas church servicers we have attended, all the more so from the frerquent power outages.

Christmas day...





Merry Christmas, up at 0900, local timish, a late start. Father christmas got through customs, with slightly Cambodian-in-nature gifts. Over for ther usual breakfast of various egg dishes, coffee, baugettes and tropical fruits (without the suspicuiously eyeball looking ones, which turn out to be Lychees).

After refusing an man-from-the-street's half hour attempt to sell us honey (complete with bees and hoineycomb) and paying him for cleaning Dad's shoes (which were wrested from his hands), we hired bikes from the 70's all without boy bars, complete with dynamos and wire baskets.

On aforementioned bikes we rode a loop out of Siem Reap, towards the Airport along the road, another risky and scary business with the Cambodian traffic, coming back along the half built, but very much in use, Siem Reap bypass. About a 30 Kilometer trip.

Some of us got quite sunburnt, but we will not siongle out Saasha for not putting on sunscreen. For our nighttime entertainment we hired a Tuk-Tuk to the ACODO orphanage for a traditional Khmer dance put on by the whole 68 children. After this show the Tuk-Tuk driver returned for us and we (all five of us at 400 odd kilograms all up) travelled back to town, it was another of thoose scary experiences, which some of us express inwardly, and others not so much (see picture).

In town we ate our 3400 Riel (USD$8.50)chirstmas meal
for five of us. This meal was cooked by the roadside in front of us and eated at tresstlke tables amongst the traffic.

Monday, December 22, 2008

By Andrew under James's Login

Greetings from Siem Reap.
Yes we made it here, and if we thought Singapore was a culture shock the arrival at Siem Reap International Airport was the same tenfold.
Line up to get our Visa's and the official would not accept the $100.0 USD note because it was a little bit ripped. Good Start not. It's crap money anyway, all an ugly green.
We were met at the Air port by our mini van and frankly there is NO way that I could ever consider driving here. It is so totally amazing. I think they drive on the other side of the road, but is hard to tell.
The majority of transport are bicycles, scooters, motor cycles, Tuk Tuk (motor cycles with a seated goatcart attached) Helmets are a rarity. It appears that as longs as you honk the horn you can go anywhere you like. Red lights are an optional choice.
We arrived, settled in and then had tea at Jasmin Lodge (google it, it is priceless) Have not spent more than 20 USD for a meal for five of us.
We went to the Angkor Temple complex, which really is a series of dozens of different temples, over 100 sq kms., Bloody awful lot of climbing, but magnificent in their antiquity, complexity architecture, planning and size. Consider they were building this over 1000 years ago.

Did not stay all day as it is very hot and tiring, worked out at the end that we should have climbed on the side that was in the shade.. This was also our first exposure to the street urchins, "You buy postcards Mister, $1.00 for 10"" on and on and on and on. These are very street smart children 5-16 years old, but it is how they live.

Last night Nathlaie, Andrew and Saasha, when out for a wander, (It is not a place that one feels at all insecure) we went to a place called seeing hands Massage parlour (no "happy ending") where the blind people of the area are taught massage therapy skills. 7 usd for 1 hr (in air cond room) 5usd for fan. It was a good going over.

Then went to the night market. "You buy from me mister"" The "highlight was a plate, about 50 cm across covered half with cooked grasshoppers and haf with big hairy cooked spiders. Saw the locals eat them too. This is an amazingly vibrant pl;ace that comes more alive at night.

The streets are challenging, if only due to the very lax definition of were the traffic and where the pedestrians should be. Very dusty too.

Today we caught up with an Austr teacher from Brisbane who suggested we visit the Angkor Cambodian Childrens hospital. (fwab.org) The purpose of this visit was to give blood "Sterile needles guaranteed"" The blood here really saves lives, children's lives. So we got a bp check, blood typing, a t shirt and a can of coke. Good feeling. The boys were too young.
More tomorrow. Went to stone masonry, wood work and silk printing workshop at which the local children learn useful trades. This is affiliated with a silk farm, which we visited, a few minutes out of town, where the locals are taught the silk business Mulberry to Retail.

Tonight, we visted Angkor Wat to see he sunset and once again do battles with The Urchins, thisd time by Tuk-Tuk, which is another cultural experience, like a roller coaster, without the guranteed safety. On the way to the hotel we came across a 4WD bogged in he main street.

Night...

Friday, December 19, 2008

Not quite gone yet

Hello again,

Just so you know, Saasha's pack has put on two kgs. Maybe she is carring my boots and does not know it?
Got to airport via walk to Bugis MRT, then train to Tanah Mera, then chan ged for train to Changi Airport,. Wonderfully efficient Transport System. Then we used the sky train to terminal two where we are now.
No driver thought. Unions home would never have it.

Yesterday, just got on a train and went to the suburbs. To a place called Punggol, and then on the Light rail, again no driver, and wnet to one of the local shopping centres. Had a wonderful meal, less than $5.00 ea, cleaner than central Singapore, and where the real Singaporeans live.

Singapore, truly a facinating place. Very patient and calm people, mostly Asian. Next time we are here we might pop into Malaysia for a day, just because we can.
For a predominately Buhdist Country, the clinging comercial grasp of Christmas has pervaded, and is very obvious. Ho Ho Ho.
Those who got the post cards did so because they were free to send, and didn.t cost anything.
See ya soon, if we make it to Siem Reap.

ABC XX

Changi and Beyond

At Changi Airport, absolutely huge. Free internet though.....one minute and 29 seconds left though.

On our way to Siem Reap, boarding soon. Hope the plane does not crash. James will not like this becaise Blogs are supposed to be soolooo serious.

See ya 30 sec left

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

The Hangout

YAY,

internet, we are staying in a budget hotel, cross between a youth hostel and dorms, there are FIVE of us in the one room, ooer, this is going gto be very interesting. So the hotel is on upper wilke road...they mean upper, up a HUGE flight of stairs!!! with20 kilo packs in 28 degree humidity, sweltering...reminds me very much of Vietnam, but emptier...

anyways more later

off to tea in "little india"
...


Dinner was lovely...huge (attempting to upload some photos from the trip so far, but to no avail), wonderful host very plaesed to explain everything to us. Suffice to say that we had Indian for tea, i doubt that we could get much else in little india.

after dinner we meandered through the crowds and the stalls, it was very exciting. the sights the sounds the smells. we saw the stall holders creating garlands of flowers that they use for temple. the colours were amazing, Vibrant. There were shops full of fasbrics and silks and clothing. beautiful jewlery stores. it was a facinating experience...

we packed it in about 2100, but nothing comes alive around here untill after dark, the singapore visitor centre is open untill 2230! most of the shops are open untill 2130 or later. It's a wonderful atmosphere!

Arrivals

We have arrived in Singapore, after our 8 hour plane journey, we are several hours behind, and enjoying and warm yet irriguous weather.



Cheers

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Ready To Leave

Hello,  Hello.  Is this thing on?  Testing testing, one two three.  Right we’re on.

Welcome to the Griswold’s part two.   The first Griswold’s Australian adventure was in 2001 and took 3 months to travel around the eastern and central parts of Australia.

 

This one is a journey to foreign lands.  Singapore, Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam.   All the family are going.  The boss Nathalie, oldest child Saasha, youngest child Patrick, the one in the middle and me Andrew.

 

Leaving 16th of December, and we’ll see what we get up to.

 

Who knows, it’s been very expensive up to date.  Can only get cheaper.

 

Hopefully we will take turns in updating and keep youse all informed as to what we are doing.