Various and Popular Photos

Child at Angkor Wat

Home Time - People Mover- Siem Reap

Moving house - Nha Trang Style

Happy to be Photographed
The local Bus - Laos
Complete with "Emergency Brake"

Dry Cleaning - Chau Doc - Big Fan of my underwear

Sombre moments- The "Killing Fields"

Soon to be dinner - Tastes like chicken

Well, we are all back now.

Now it is time to reflect on our journey.

There is a big mirror in the lounge room we use for this purpose.

Going on a holiday with the oldies is a good deal. They have the pleasure of the stimulating company of Mum and Dad. They have the advantage of thier wisdom, and life experience and the parents pay for most of the holiday.

Now that we are back the best thing about the journey was that we could be in each other's company for nearly two months and still be talking. Well done crew. All we need to do now is plan for the next adventure.(sans children)

05.02.09 - Hanoi

Well today was a bit of a laid back day, we got up late and went to the The Military History Museum. This museum is one of six national museums. It has as many shot down and captured aircraft as you can point a stick at, the central exhibit being a pile of metal from just about every plane Amercia had in the Vietnam (or American) war.

Then we meandered over to vist Uncle Ho, at the Ho Chi Minh Moseuem, sadly it was Ho's afternoon sesita, so we could get in, however the building is kinda cool, and the gaurds did a bit of walking around. So yeah...


This, after dinner, was the end of our day.

06.01.09 - Hanoi

Today, we collected... Havinsg ordered a whole heap of stuff eariler we collected, also we picked a load of souvineers.



07.02.09 - Hanoi to Singapore

08.02.09 - Singapore to Maleka

09.02.09 - Maleka to Singapore

10.02.09 - Singapore... HOME!!!!

A few days...

01.02.09 – SaPa – Hanoi
Today we were found by Chi, one of my friends who decided that she'd walk with us for the day. So we started out with a very invigorating walk. I’m not sure quite where we went up some hill somewhere it was very misty, very slippery, and very cold. James purchased a wall hanging, very nice, from one of the old ladies who followed us all the way up the hill, just to gate a sale of 100,000VND. She was happy. We then found the lake and went walking around that, many many people about especially the younger ones. All of a sudden there were people running past us in a hurry, talking excitedly. Chi informed us that there was a fight and every one was going to see. When we think fight, we think bar brawls, here in SaPa they simply yell at each other, they don’t lay a finger on anyone. However the crowd around them was huge, it was something of an excitement. Chi later told us that they where fighting over a buffalo and a women, I think it was.
So we passed the morning and afternoon, waiting for the 1630 bus (the last one) to take us to Lao Cai, to catch the 2100 train to Hanoi.
It seems that Vietnamese, Cambodians, Loations are no good at holding their food down. There were possibly 15 people on this bus; I think 5 were vomiting the whole hour to Lao Cai. Very unpleasant.
Passed the time, we were on the train by 2030, sharing our 4 berth cabin with7 people. I love how flexible the concept of tickets is here. We settled straight down for the night and had a very comfortable sleep.
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02.01.09 – Hanoi
Arrived at Ga Hanoi at 0545 and alighted ready to start the walk back to the Tin Tin Hotel, not very far but Hanoi’s streetlights go out at 0600, and it’s still dark at this time, so that produced a little of a challenge for us, but before long we were ringing the hotels doorbell. We traipsed in and were allocated the same room as previously. (Thanks for the money Dad, really really helpful!). We had a little rest them went out to do a few errands, including booking a 2 day trip to Halong Bay. This 2 day tour was booked for the next day costing us $USD35 pp.
We did a little shopping, food and such, ordered some wooden stamps, and some clothes. We had dinner at Quan Bia Minh, a nice little restaurant, with lovely food and a fantastic view of a power transformer.

03.01.09 – 04.01.09 – Hanoi to Ha Long to Hanoi
This day, a day when we got up at well before our 8:00 bus trip to Ha Long Bay. The day started well enough and we (and 15 others) trundled off. We arrived at Ha Long bay around 11.00, where we were promptly stripped of our passports and led to a boat. The boat, a Junk, was a completely wooden affair, with two levels and sun deck (the roof with some deck chairs), this was our hotel for the night. So again we set off, now chugging along, in and around the “Limestone Formations” (i.e. Big Rocks) that make up Ha Long bay. Although impressive (well; they’re big, and in the water) the rocks by themselves would be slightly dull, so we jumped out at a few points along the way.
Firstly, the natural limestone caves, with completely natural colored spotlighting and water fountains.
After this awe inspiring natural display, a boat ride through a rock archway (in a littler boat) was in order, for 40 000 ($4 AUD). It took less than 10 minutes, and was much like all the other rock, but oooohed and aaaaahed as was expected of us. And the boatman made a tidy profit.
And finally for the day, a canoe ride, where we actually had to paddle ourselves, admittedly after the other attractions this was quite nice, they ran from a fish farm which stocked Cuttle Fish, among various other sea life.
While boarding the boat from this fish station we encountered a small problem. By we, I mean the royal we. Our tour group consisted of a group of 17 people (despite by repeatedly promised that there would only be 15ppl) there was a clear divide between a group of 5 20-somethings and the rest of us. These 20 somethings, after the canoe ride decided that they would like a beer, so they purchased them, no problems from the little floating convenience stores and proceeded to drink them. However when they tried to get back on the boat, they were told that there was a “corkage” fee of 50,000VND per bottle of alcohol, more than the beverages them selves. There was cries of outrage ect, ect, ect. Well this was only a lead up of things to come. They sculled the bottles and climbed back on ship. Well there was much discussion about this and then it was revealed that one of them had bought 3 bottles of Vodka with them.

That evening, after dinner, James and I retired to our room, while this group retired to the sundeck and proceeded to get wasted, with their bottles. We heard all about it in the morning…

It seems that they had borrowed some glasses in which to consume the vodka, being told that if any were broken it was $USD20 (340,000VND)a glass. Apparently they broke all four that they borrowed. Well there was an actual screaming match between two of these kids and the tour guide. It went on for a good hour, ending with the guide threatening to not return the passports until they paid up (I doubt that that would actually be legal). However they negotiated the price down to 60,000 VND a glass (still about 10 times the glasses total worth) and received their passports.
After this, our guide was in a sulk, it was quite funny, if not very immature of him, as he had started the conflict and caused the escalation. I guessed that he was pretty bummed out over the whole thing. It was actually quite embarrassing to watch.
We did nothing this morning, despite the tour itinerary stating that we were swimming this am. We docked at midday and were bussed to this dodgy looking café. We were herded upstairs (with arm waving) and sat down. We were quickly served a rather bland meal and herded out again.
This café seemed to be an ex hotel, and in each room, was now tables, a tour group to each room. It did give the feel of sheep being feed lotted.

On the way home, in traditional Australian/British (and Swedish it seems) culture, the three guys finshed 2 slabs of beer between them. The conversation starting with things one would'nt tell a nun, skipping the things you would'nt tell your mother, stright to the things you woul'nt tell another living soul.

This group then invited everyone on the bus along to a vietnamese "pub crawl", most of us declined.

Despite this we got back to TinTin, in an imitation of comfort, and had dinner, again at Gecko cafe.

Then, we went to sleep.

Some Photos and Such

Much Catch Up, all that has been missed

20.01.09 - Luang Pro Bang.

So the bus trip was to Luang Pro Bang a world heritage site, we arrived at 0600am from Vientiane and got on a Jumbo to take us into town. All these bus stations seem to be built 3 or 4 kms out of town, which makes a great little earner for all the Jumbo Drivers and Motorbike Drivers.

Arrived early, found a nice room for $40 USD at the Mekong Moon Inn a night where we all bunked in showered and went out to explore a little before having a rest. Mum and I signed up for a Laotian Cooking Course, tomorrow and the boys, well they are just boys.

Went to a Vegetarian Buffet on the side of the road for dinner, it was a plate for 5000k very cheap and very good food. Then we wandered around the night market just to look but it's all the same, no different things and very touristy.

21.01.09 - Food and Temples

Well the team separated without anxiety at all for the first time in 5 weeks.The girls went and did a silly cooking course, from the market to the table. From about 0800-1600 hrs.

The blokes did an important bit of touristing.

Temples and Buddha's are to this part of the world as Gondolas must be to Venice. Once you have seen the first 10 thousand or so, they tend to merge and assimilate and blur.

Bit of a lazy morning, sending post cards to some of those unfortunates that do not have access to this masterpiece of literary exquisiteness (as edited by Saasha).

(Oh Ben, the post office made me put the stamp on the writing side, so you can steam the stamp off)

Wander though the morning market, to see the array (again) of various wild life that are for sale. This morning there were some really colourful Kingfishers for sale.

Then we had to do the internet thing for James, as he has to enroll in his Uni course, which took a bit of time.

After brunch we circumvented the local touts, who wanted to charge us K15,000 to get to the other side of the Mekong, and went straight to the ferryman (who contrary to the song, we did pay before we got to the other side) and only paid K5,000 each way.

We met up after going our different ways for an afternoon nap and then dinner at another street side stall, with a hot pot where you cooked yourself. And strolled through the night market again. Bus early tomorrow morning we are going to Phonsavan heading towards to boarder to get to SaPa in time for Tet on the 25.01.09.

22.01.09 - Luang Pro Bang - Phonsavan

Today we had a long bus ride from Luang Pro Bang to Phonsavan. We started at 0830 and arrived in Phonsavan at 1730, after going all day. We hurriedly lined up some accommodation and a sunset tour to the Plain of Jars. We were minivanned to Dokhon Guest House where it cost us 100,000k for 2 rooms. We then rushed along to the Plain Of Jars, 20kms out of Phonsavan and arrived just in time for sunset. We were the only people there as the ticket office actually closed at 1630, it seemed that our driver knew some inside people so he got us in to the Plain just in time. The Plain of Jars (site 1)

Lao stories and legends claim that there was a race of giants who once inhabited the area. Local legend tells of an ancient king called Khun Cheung, who fought a long, victorious battle against his enemy. He supposedly created the jars to brew and store huge amounts of "lao lao" rice wine to celebrate his victory
The jars are made of rock. They are angular or round and some have disks that could be lids. They can weigh up to 13 tonnes and range from 1-3 meters in height. The jars lie in clusters. The largest one near the town of Phonsavan, known as Site 1, contains over 250 jars of varying sizes. The jars now lie amidst thousands of unexploded bombs left behind by the Secret War in Laos in the 1960s. The large quantity of UXOs (unexploded ordnances), in the area means that only Sites 1, 2 and 3 are open to visitors—the others are considered too dangerous.
After our sojourn to the Plain of Jars we headed back at a more leisurely pace and were dropped off at our hotel. We then went off in search of dinner and internet. We found dinner but no internet. Dinner was Indian, traditional Laotian Indian of course! Off to bed for another early start to the bus station this time the bus to Xam Neau.

23.01.09 - Phonsavan - Xam Neau

Early start, and breakfast at the bus station, our minivan was waiting for us at 0700, like we requested and took us most efficiently to the station. Our bus trip was mostly unremarkable, and we arrived in Xam Neau mostly unscathed. We got a Jumbo from the station to a hotel from the lonely planet. Khamxam Guesthouse. We arrived, and asked about the route to the boarder, we didn't get much of an answer, although an American bike rider told us that it was a very nice journey, very scenic and very pleasant. Well we went off to find some dinner and internet, again. And again, we found dinner, but no internet. We went for a short walk in the cold mistyness of Xam Neau and found, well not much really, a few convenience store, where we purchased a few snacks for the next days trip, then headed back to the hotel to turn in for the night, for again another early start.

24.01.09 - Xam Neau - Hanoi

MAJORLY RIPPED OFF

"Dear Sir.

We have had a bad experience with dishonest people in Nameo (Nam Xoi) in Vietnam, who would not provide any help for us to get across to SaPa. The only transport they would provide was one bus for $USD30.00 pp to Hanoi, and the bus driver I think told everybody else in the town not to help us. The bus journey was also very dangerous too. It now makes it very hard for us to make it to SaPa, because we run out of time. My son and Daughter will still be coming, possibly arriving on Tuesday morning and will need a 2 bed room. They will confirm with you this

I am very sorry that this has happened, as we were looking forward to being at SaPa for Tet.

This has made a very bad impression of that part of Vietnam.

My wife and I will be coming back to Vietnam, maybe next year, and we look forward to getting to SaPa first.

Thank you for your help and patience with us.

Andrew and Nathalie Caulfield"

Well today was not a good day, we started at 0645 where we again minivanned ourselves to the station, when we got there, we asked the driver, which was our bus to Nam Xoi. He pointed, jokingly, at a Sawngthaew (or Jumbo, Large pick-up with seats in the tray). We went to the ticket counter and were told indeed this was our transport to the boarder. So we unpacked our warm and woolies and repacked everything else then climbed aboard this Sawngthaew for the 2-3 hr journey to the boarder. We had our fingers crossed that we would arrive at the boarder before 1130 as it was open from 0730-1130 and 1330-1630, no matter what, fortunately we arrived at 1030 and began the tedious bureaucratic process of international travel. We were across the boarder by 1130 and walked into the Vietnamese town of Nam Xoi. Once there we set about finding transport out of Nam Xoi and directly to SaPa, to no avail. This town had something of a mafia controlled feel. We were informed thet the only bus out of Nam Xoi was a small crowded minibus to Hanoi for $30USD pp. a total rip off. We enquired at the large truck depot, and they were positive that there was only one bus out of Nam Xoi. We enquired at a house with a minivan and they were sure there was only one bus, even when we offered $100 to drive 85kms to the next town, no joy. So we were resigned to forgoing our accommodation in SaPa to traveling to Hanoi at a ridiculous price.

I would advise any one who plans to travel this way to avoid Nam Xoi and travel instead through Vinh a more southerly boarder crossing.

We arrived in Hanoi at 2230 to obtain 2 taxis to the Tin Tin Hotel. The taxis the proceeded to again rip us of, charging us $40 for less than a 3km and 5 minute journey. Hungry, tired angry and disheartened we arrived at the Tin Tin hotel. Feeling very disillusioned to the North Vietnamese.

25.01.09 - Hanoi - Tin Tin Hotel - TET

HAPPY NEW YEAR

Today is the eve of Vietnam's biggest annual celebration. The celebration of the Lunar New Year or Tet. We went to the train station to purchase two tickets to Lao Cai and then contacted the Hotel in SaPa to inform them of our imminent arrival. We then walked to Singapore Airlines to attempted to change James and my Flights, to spend more days in Vietnam than Singapore, as it's cheaper and I feel that there is more to do here. However, because it is Tet and a Sunday, many many places are closed. So of course the airline office is closed and we will have to try later to change our flights.

We rested for the remainder of the day in anticipation of the New Year Celebrations that were in store. We went walking during the evening, after a very overpriced and disappointing meal, we were a huge attraction to the locals and tourists alike girls and boys were clamoring to have photos taken with us and a large giggly group of perhaps Korean(?) girls all crowded into the photos, it was very amusing to all involved. We found a good spot on the banks of Hoan Kiem Lake, where the major fireworks were being let off. We were so close that we could hear the initial take off of the fireworks. After 20 minutes or so of spectacular fireworks we went for another walk around, watched old and young locals letting off the paper lanterns into the sky. We then walked back to hotel where we were promptly invited to share in traditional New Year's offerings with Mr. Cuong, the owner of the hotel. With local red wine for all and sweet and savory New Year specialties for us to try. We went to bed full and looking forward to the next day.

26.01.09 - Hanoi - Separation - Lao Cai - SaPa

Today, our last day together, James and I checked out of our room. We walked around a very closed and quite Hanoi. Sorted out our bags what James and I still needed and what we could send home with Mum Dad and Patrick. Sorted everything out, walked to the station, said our goodbyes and got underway to SaPa. Can't Wait!!!!

27.01.09 - SaPa - Mountain View Hotel

So, due to our sprit dampening and experience tarnishing encounter at the boarder we had to re-think our travel plans and make our way to Hanoi. Due to the time factor, the parentals and Patrick have stayed in Hanoi and James and I have become independent travelers, a little earlier than planned.
Last night the family all walked from our lovely Hotel, the Tin-Tin Hotel (really nice, I stayed there 3 years ago) Mr. Cuong, the owner is very nice and very helpful, we shared a traditional Vietnamese New Year with him on New Years at midnight when we arrived back at the hotel from the Fireworks. Anyway, the point, we walked to the station, James was so excited that he was literally jumping up and down all the way there. We bid our fond farewells to the others, and settled down to a game of scrabble, I won! Our train didn't depart until 2150, but we boarded at 2030 and set ourselves up. Sleeping bags out and bags away. We were in a 6 berth hard sleeper, which we shared with a lovely family of 4, who spoke a little English, and 1 young fellow, who didn't say much at all. So we all settled in and turned in for the night, very cozy and very warm. The hard sleeper weren't all that hard, after some of the hotel beds that we have slept on, it really wasn't that bad, and last time I was on a hard sleeper 3 years ago, they only provided bamboo mats, no mattresses, so this was infinitely better.
After a lovely nights sleep, we awoke at about 0530 and found out that we would be arriving in half an hour or so. We packed up got sorted and landed safe and sound in Lao Cai. Lao Cai is the station nearest to SaPa, on the Vietnam-China boarder. Lao Cai was completely rebuilt in 1979 after being destroyed by China, "punishment" by the Chinese for Vietnam's involvement in the defeat of the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia. We were greeted at the train station by a sign "Mountain View Hotel Warmly Greets Ms Caulfield", I though that it was a nice touch, we purchased Milo and Oreos for breakfast before the hours twisty, turny, windy drive to SaPa. We arrived at SaPa, very cold, it's colder than 10°C, I can see my breath fogging in front of the computer, and visibility is probably at less than 100 meters. We arrived at 0830, checked in, had a HOT, HOT shower and came down to have a proper breakfast of pancakes.
We have organised to go on a three day trek tomorrow with two home stays, walking from SaPa to Lao Chai, Ta Van, Giang it Chai and Ban Hoa. We also purchased our train tickets for the return trip, soft sleepers this time, all that was available, I'm sure that'll be nice.
Went out for a walk before and I found my friends that I have kept in contact with from the last time that I was here, Zi (Lucy) and Chi. Still as cheeky as ever these two, and all the children crowd around you as you walk outside trying to get you to buy. I also met two Red Dzao Women, and I have organised to go walking on Saturday, to their village 12kms away about 3hr walk. And we'll go to their houses and all it'll be very interesting. I'm looking forward to this home stay trek, it'll be very interesting. But I think I'll have to buy some gloves, my fingers feel like they are about to snap off.
All the ethnic people, women, children and men are walking around in their new clothes, clean and shiny. By the end of the year their clothes are dull and worn and they make a whole new set for TET, their new year, nothing is open here today, because of TET, but things should be open tomorrow, we hope.
Signing off for now, to snuggle in sleeping bag for half and hour or so to thaw.
Much love
xoxox

Our Three Day Trek in SaPa

The three day long trek.

28.01.09 - SaPa to Ta Van

Well today we started our big trek. This was different from our trek in Laos, as the temperatures here are a lot cooler than in Laos, and the Laos countryside is quite flat and monotonous additionally it was big. So we started in our hotel lobby at 0900 where we met Mai, our guide, a young Black H'mong girl. We trekked out of SaPa in the fog and mist and cold. Our first stop was Cat Cat a small village 3 kms south of SaPa.

From here we took a "short cut" via Mai's home, a rather nice little place, on top of a rather large hill. That aside, we had a chance to meet her family, and experience a more "rustic" H'mong home. A common sight being the meats, including stuffed Pigs stomach, intestine sausages and strips of skin, hair still on, smoking above the fireplace. Another sight being the 5 family dogs, which we were unashamedly informed were for eating, from then on all the dogs seem rather sad looking.

After being introduced to her family, Mai lead us on up the muddy and slippery slope to our first home stay in Ta Van. This place was kind of like a Hotel except that it was a house as well. It really did not feel all that authentic. We arrived early so we were taken for a walk around Ta Van to see the locals before they went home for the evening. We then returned to our home stay.

Despite being in the wilderness of Vietnam our "Home Stay Mates" were 4 foreigners, 3 of which were Australians. So this seemingly unlikely group of 5 Australians (and an American) ate their way through a large spread of Vietnamese cuisine. It was very nice meal. After the meal and a few games of "31" we were off to bed for a good nights sleep.

29.01.09 - Ta Van to Ban Ho

The following morning, after a laid back 0900 wakeup and breakfast of as many pancakes as you could eat we were off again. On our merry way, up a muddy, slippery slope, past countless meals (duck, chicken, goat, pig, buffalo, goose, dog, cat and perhaps a turkey) frolicking in the rice paddies, across the muddy rice paddies, down several muddy, slippery hills, past countless tourists (American, Japanese, Vietnamese, Korean, English, Israeli, Australian) slipping up and down the same muddy hills, and through some dense bamboo forests, it was about lunch time. And we were just a little unhunrgy after the mornings adventuring. Today's offering was noodle soup, which consists of instant noodles, and as many different vegetables as you can think of, finished off with ginger, lemon grass and chili.

Almost mercifully after lunch we were walking along road, where we passed many children all in traditional black H'mong garb, and blue hands, all it appeared walking up and back along this road, engrossed in various activities. With their new clothes and time off school or work, Tet is the traditional time for the youth of the minorities to find girlfriends/boyfriends (it's normal to have 3 or 4 girlfriends or boyfriends), and to just walk around to show off the new clothing. It's the only Holiday in the year that they get, so they should make the most of it.

We continued onto Ban Ho, down a very steep and bumpy and lumpy slope, without too many mishaps. We arrived in Ban Ho village around 1500, where we made our way to our home stay (this evening shared with two severe looking French) where we deposited our bags and made our way to the natural thermal springs in Ban Ho. Admission 20000VND pp, about 2 dollars. The springs weren't very warm but it was nice after a long day of trekking. We then dried off and walked back, I can tell you I got quite a few looks walking back in my thermals; we neglected to bring bathers with us so we went swimming in clothes that we needed to wash and hoped fervently that they would dry by the morning.

We were invited into the Kitchen while dinner was being prepared, and it was hard not to cringe as you watched Mai put spoonfuls or a mystery salt like substance into the dishes, a nameless substance that makes everything taste so good, perhaps better known as MSG. Suffice to say, the food did taste quite good, and happily we don't suffer from side effects of MSG like others do. So after another few games of "31" we were off to bed again for another nights good sleep.

30.01.09 - Ban Ho to SaPa

Pancakes for breakfast, again, but no complaints here, very nice pancakes. We then set off sans bags for a small Red Dzao minority village about an hour uphill trek form Ban Ho, we got there puffed and sweaty and hot looked around then went back down the slippery slope to Ban Ho, where we had lunch at our guest house.

Then we took off again, this time with our bag for the hour hard slog up the huge hill that we had descended yesterday to Ban Den where we were meeting the Jeep to drive us to 15kms to SaPa.

We arrived back in SaPa at 1500 and checked back into the hotel and had the same room, as the first night. We showered and thawed and rested our weary heads then dined in the hotel restaurant. James had a Pork Curry and I had a Vegetable Burger. Very nice food. We have HBO and Star Movies on the television. So there are some good shows to watch. However we went to bed for an early night and a deep sleep.

31.01.09 - Mountain View Hotel - SaPa

Woke up relatively early still trying to decide if we would walk to the red Dzao village that we were going to. Decided against it, as it's very cold, I have a cold and James has a sniffle, not much point making ourselves sicker. So we rested for a bit then went out for a walk around the village. Found the women that we were going to walk with a bought a hat from them for Dad, very colourful, just as he likes it. Now it's still very cold here, and the hotel lobby is no warmer. We were going to go to the Bac Ha markets tomorrow, however it's an organised group tour, which to James and I sounds like no fun at all. Motorbikes won't takes us as it's too far, 150kms away, which is a little disappointing, though I'm sure that we can find something else to do. Tomorrow we check out and are catching the train back tomorrow evening. more excitement...